Wood Floor Installation | Subfloor Over Concrete. Note: Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation for a proper subfloor. Part IDirect Gluing a Subfloor Over Concrete. A. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer's recommendation for proper application, proper adhesive and correct trowel notch and spread rate. B. If necessary, add vapor retarder recommended by the adhesive manufacturer before applying adhesive. Part IIFloated Subfloor. A. In on- grade and below- grade applications, always add vapor retarder before applying underlayment. B. In above- grade applications, follow the flooring manufacturer's recommendations. C. A vapor retarder is recommended anytime solid ¾" wood flooring is installed over concrete. A vapor retarder is required for installation over concrete with a calcium chloride reading greater than 3 pounds, a relative humidity reading of greater than 7. CM) reading of greater than 2. Warm N Quiet Subfloor is a high performance and moderately priced subfloor that dramatically reduces footfall noise, insulates your floor and protects against.D. Floated Subfloor System. CD Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels (CDX) 4' x 8' sheets. Prep, layout, installation and finishing tips for tongue and groove floors. Installing tongue-and-groove floors—engineered, pre-finished or bare wood—is among the. Installation method. Place the first plywood layer with edges parallel to wall, without fastening. Leave ¾" space between wall and plywood.
Plywood panels should be placed with 1/8" gaps between sheets. Lay the second layer perpendicular or at 4. Plywood panels should be placed with 1/8" gaps between sheets and a ¾" minimum expansion space at all vertical obstructions and wall lines. Staple/screw and glue (with urethane or construction adhesive) the second layer to first layer on 1. Be careful not to penetrate the vapor retarder. E. Alternate Subfloor System. Use minimum ¾" (2. CD Exposure 1 Plywood sheathing, 4' x 8' sheets. Installation method. Cut sheets to 1. 6" x 8' or smaller panels, scored on back 3/8" deep a minimum of every 1. Panels staggered every 2', and spaced 1/8" between ends, with ¾" minimum expansion space at all vertical obstructions. Part IIIGlue- Down Subfloor. A. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer's recommendation for proper subfloor, spread rate and trowel notch. B. If necessary, add vapor retarder before applying underlayment. A vapor retarder is recommended anytime solid ¾" wood flooring is installed over concrete. C. Glue- Down Subfloor System. Use minimum ¾" (2. CD Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels, (Exposure 1), 4' x 8' sheets. Installation method. Cut the plywood panels to 2' x 8' or 4' x 4' sections. Score the back of the panels ½ the thickness on a 1. Apply an adhesive approved for the installation of plywood, per the plywood manufacturer's recommendations. Lay sections in a staggered joint pattern in the adhesive, with 1/8" spacing between sheets, and ¾" minimum expansion space at walls and all vertical obstructions. Part IVNail- Down Subfloor. A. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation for proper subfloor. B. In on- grade and below- grade applications, always add vapor retarder before applying underlayment. In abovegrade applications, follow the flooring manufacturer's recommendations. C. A vapor retarder is recommended anytime solid ¾" wood flooring is installed over concrete. D. Nail- Down Subfloor System Over Concrete. Minimum: Use minimum ¾" (2. CD Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels (CDX), 4' x 8' sheets. Installation method - Note: Fasteners may be powder- driven pins, pneumatic driven nails, screws, deformed pins, or other fasteners suitable for concrete application. Check with fastener manufacturer for specification such as length, drill size, and/or shot load where applicable. Stagger panel joints allowing approximately 1/8" expansion space around all panels to prevent edge peaking due to compression caused by panel swell. Allow ¾" minimum expansion space at all vertical obstructions. Panels should be mechanically fastened. For powder load or pneumatic pressure information, contact your local supplier. Nailing requirements, minimum 3. Areas with higher humidity may require additional fasteners. Part VScreed System. A. Solid ¾", 2. 5/3. B. Engineered wood flooring less than ¾" (2. C. For engineered flooring less than ¾" thick, thin - classification strip, and for solid plank (3" and wider), the screed system must be overlaid with proper subflooring. The screed system must be overlaid with nominal ¾" (2. Exposure 1, or nominal 5/8" (1. Exposure 1, CDX plywood subfloor panels or nominal ¾" (2. OSB underlayment properly spaced and oriented perpendicular to screed direction. All joints must be staggered. D. Installation method. See. Appendix I, Installation Over Screeds. Low Budget DIY Plywood Plank Floors. Probably… no wait…. I mean) and replacing it with wood floors. We were keeping things as low cost as possible and were willing to do as much work as it took to put down new floors that we both loved and, let’s be honest, wouldn’t care about too much in the near future when the “new” has worn off & bangs & scratches happen here and there. This whole barn house was (and still kinda is) rough around the edges, so we wanted floors that matched and could take a pounding while still looking cool. Alright. so, since I practically live on the internet, during my travels across the webz window shopping for renovation ideas, I came across both Hindsvik’s modern plywood floors in their bedroom and Picklee’s rustic farmhouse plywood plank floors she put in her shop. I loved the super wide, raw planks & built in headboard from Hindsvik, and I also loved the worn look & durability from Picklee’s floor. I’ve always loved raw plywood & building projects that could be disassembled, but in the end, I went with the more permanent installation method I learned from Picklee. It also didn’t hurt that we were working on a barn house, so, no doy! We decided to go for Picklee’s style floors … and in the end, I think they turned out like a great happy medium between the two. They’re rustic & barn- like, but still look clean and modern with all the other things we did to the house. So how about I quit talking, and start showing you how we did them! Of course, the first thing I had to do was go buy a bunch of plywood. I ended up buying the cheap stuff with built in texture. It was 1/2″ x 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3- ply sheathing CDX plywood. The rough looking stuff they use when building exterior house walls and roofs). I bought them at Menards during one of their store- wide 1. If I remember right, we ended up getting them for about $1. I made sure to pick through the pile at the store and avoid grabbing ones with huge cracks, big knot holes, chunks missing, etc. I tried to get the ones in the best shape with good texture, but not too “trashy” of a texture if you know what I mean. Oh, and by the way, I figured out how many sheets I needed by using some simple math. We measured the rooms we were going to cover (all rooms minus baths & kitchen/dining) and estimated it to around 1. Each sheet of plywood is 3. I figured we might need to buy a few extra just in case we needed to cut away knots or I screwed up some cuts or whatever, so we brought home ~ 5. We stacked the plywood into 2 piles downstairs and continued working on other parts of the house first. We had to replace a lot of water damaged drywall & paneling, install board & batten on our ceilings, gut the kitchen & bathroom, & work on some other big, messy projects like that before moving on to the floors. Things were finally starting to shape up downstairs. Once all the drywall was fixed, so we were able to rip out all the carpeting around the piles & start removing staples to get the floors ready. It’s hard to see, but to the right of the picture, there was still a big square of vinyl flooring that had to come up as well. The downstairs bedroom (soon to be my DIY workroom) had these old pine plank floors that came up pretty easy. They were just nailed down with a few nails and were still in great shape, so we removed all the nails, and stored them down in the basement for future projects. I was trying to figure out how I wanted to sand the plywood sheets. I could either cut them down, install them, and then sand them down like a normal wood floor…. I could rent this big flooring sander, knock each sheet out about a minute or two, and then cut them down into planks and install. That thing was a heavy beast, but it worked great. And it was only about $5. Menards. I decided to go this route, because I also wanted to slightly round off the plank edges with my palm sander before installing them to prevent splinters & snags later on. Once the all the sheets were sanded, we spent an afternoon slicing them down into 8″ wide planks with the table saw. It took several hours, and it was loud & messy (wear protection)… but we got it done. We could have had a store cut them down for us, but I have a couple reasons why we didn’t. First off, when we bought the plywood, I asked some of the Menards employees if they would cut the wood down for me, and they said that they don’t cut wood at the store. I know I’ve had Lowes cut wood for me before, and I think Home Depot does too… but apparently not Menards. And if they did, I would have felt bad to ask them to slice 5. It would have been a loud, messy, couple of hours in the store. They probably would have asked me to never come back again! The other thing was that we already had a table saw and figured we could easily do it ourselves. I ended up building a quick, little table extension made out of 2×4 boards and some thin luan we had left over from other projects. You can see it in the picture. It helped us keep the sheets level as we cut. The one thing to keep in mind when cutting the planks by hand like this is that it’s easy to accidentally cut them with a slight curve if you’re not careful to keep them lined up to the fence. A few of our planks ended up slightly curved and we had to put them in a separate pile. Also, when you slice a sheet into six 8″ wide planks, the last one will be closer to 7- 1/2″ wide due to the waste cut away by the thickness of the saw blade. We also put those narrower planks in their own pile. We used them for the planks mounted against the walls that would probably have to be cut narrower anyway. You’ll see what I mean later.)Once all the planks were cut, we spent a few more hours the next afternoon slightly rounding off the top facing edges with palm sanders to make the planks look a little more old & worn and to prevent sock snags or foot splinters when walking across the floors later. As you can see, it produced a ginormous saw dust pile that practically filled up a trash bag once I swept it all up. Also, everything else is the house was coated in a soft layer of plywood saw dust. If you’re planning to try making these floors for yourself, I’d recommend cutting them outside or in a shop if your house isn’t a giant construction zone already like ours was. We moved the cut planks into the gutted kitchen/dining area, so that we could finish putting up the board & batten ceiling and paint everything from the bottom of the walls up. This was also the first taste of how open the downstairs was going to be once everything was finished and cleared out. We could see that it was going to be awesome! And… boom! By the magic of blog post editing, all the walls & ceilings are now primed & painted. The walls and ceiling boards (the flat parts) were painted semi- gloss white, the ceiling batten trim was painted flat white, and the big floor to ceiling posts were painted gloss white. All that over head painting was messy, and we didn’t want to drip or spatter all over the new floors, so that’s why we painted everything before installing the floors. The subfloors looked like a giant flock of birds were getting over a stomach virus, but that’s ok… they were gonna get covered anyway. It was finally time to start clearing out the rest of the floor and making some repairs. That big square of vinyl flooring next to the front door was actually hiding a secret. Old, busted up, parquet flooring underneath! Man, it was a hard, sweaty job tearing all that crap up. The vinyl floor peeled up without too much hassle, but that glued down parquet floor took some real muscle. I used that roofing- shingle- shovel- thing to get under it and pop it up … both in chunks and little pieces. I also discovered 2 holes cut in the subfloor that I had to make patches for. I’m not sure why they were there, but they’re gone now! The house also had really old, leaky windows that rotted out big hunks of the subfloor underneath. We wanted to get rid of them, so we had to cut them out and make patches for them. The subfloors were just 3/4″ inch plywood, so we cut patches out of new 3/4″ ply to fit up to the floor joists, built some extra blocking underneath, and screwed them down. Some of the gaps were a tad big on our slightly guestimated- measured & hand- cut patches (oops), so I filled them in with some caulk just in case.If your floors have any holes or rotten spots, I highly recommend making patches for them before installing flooring. Design Your Own License Plate Front And Back here.
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